The last of the sunshine : 19th January 2012
Ski touring in les Encombres

“I think you’re completely mad, walking uphill on skis,” a friend said recently. “Isn’t that what ski lifts are for?”

I used to share this point of view – why stick skins on your skis and trudge up a mountain when you can glide uphill effortlessly on a lift? Then I discovered off-piste skiing and learned that a few minutes of walking reward you with virgin snow when every lift-accessed slope is tracked out. And now I realise ski touring is not just about the descents earned, but also enjoying the whole getting-away-from-it-all experience, and even the uphill bits can be really quite enjoyable.

Yesterday I skied with mountain guide Roland George and a group of local “ski de randonnée” enthusiasts. We set off into the backcountry with rucksacks containing skins and a picnic, and enjoyed a near-perfect day in the Encombres Valley. Despite no fresh snow falling in the past ten days, Roland found us some lovely soft snow (plus a few crusty bits). Two half-hour uphill walks earned us two beautiful descents in untouched snow.

For me, the attractions of touring are silence, empty slopes and gorgeous scenery. Touring also brings you close to nature and yesterday we saw more wild animals than humans. I was thrilled to see a Siberian hare which sprang up at our approach, only the second “blanchot” I’ve seen in 20 years. Grazing chamois watched us as we skied past and snow finches wheeled overhead, brilliant white against the blue sky. We returned home sunburned, physically tired but mentally revived by our day in the wilds.

I shan’t bang on any more about the joys of ski touring, as I realise there’s a good chance it won’t interest you. Should you wish to give it a go, the local Bureau des Guides organises touring trips on Wednesdays and Fridays. The day with a guide and a small group costs €100 per person which I find good value – it’s the price of a good lunch in Courchevel. Touring skis, skins and avalanche transceivers can all be hired locally by the day.

“But what about the snow?” I hear you ask. Well, the pistes are generally in great shape although some areas are growing a bit hard. Any icy patches will soon be covered over as snow is forecast over the weekend, followed by sun from Monday onwards. Next week, we will enjoy fine weather and fresh snow to make wiggles in, whether you prefer making them on the piste or in the back of beyond.

• Latest Conditions
  Good
• Depth of snow on lower slopes
  115m
• Altitude of last snowfall
  1450m
• Date of last snowfall
  6th January 2012
• Depth of last snowfall
  80cm
• Total number of pistes
  85
• Highest temperature
  7C
• Altitude of lower slopes
  1400m
• Depth of snow on upper slopes
  205cm
• Avalanche risk
  1
• Altitude of upper slopes
  2700m
• Number of pistes open
  83
• Altitude of highest temperature
  1450m

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